I spend a lot time daydreaming about surfing as summer passes being land locked and deprived of waves. It was easy in the past to pack up every summer and follow the snow melt back to the sea. I did this for years and planned on practicing this ritual uninterrupted forever. This summer migration has been happily delayed waiting for my son to be born. A priority shift and my new plan is to stay put until he’s able to travel to California. Hopefully It will be just in time to catch a west swell with light Santa Anna winds this fall. It all comes down to not surfing until then. To cope with this I seek refuge in pages of magazines, books and videos. I’ve been reading Gerry’s Lopez’s book “Surf Is Where You Find It” to get my fix. It takes me on vivid journeys throughout the world of surfing. I get lost in his descriptions of surfing world class waves and the changing moods of the ocean. I remember the lessons it teaches and rewards it can offer. I contemplate what it’s all about and wait in anticipation for my next wave. Once again I feel like a surfer, I’ve found it… even it’s only in my imagination.
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